Winter in Roquetas de Mar & Almería — Part 2: When Spain's Coast Gets Cozy
- J C
- Oct 7
- 9 min read
This is Part 2 of the Bear Families Roquetas de Mar series. If you missed Part 1 about autumn, start there for the full picture.
We'll be honest here: when we first told people we were spending winter in Roquetas de Mar & Almería, they looked at us like we'd grown second heads. "Winter? In Spain? Why not summer?"
But here's what they don't know and what we discovered after having spent three magical winters along the southern coast winter in Roquetas de Mar isn't about sacrificing sunshine for solitude. It's about finding a different kind of magic entirely.
The Weather Reality Check (No Sugarcoating)
Let us set realistic expectations, because we hate when travel blogs or articles lie to you.
December through January: You're looking at daytime highs of 15–18°C (59–64°F). That's jacket weather, folks, not tank-top weather. Evenings drop to 8–10°C (46–50°F), and we learned the hard way that a "light sweater" wasn't going to cut it on the beach at sunset.
February: Things start perking up. More sun, warmer days, and that first hint that spring is lurking around the corner.
Pack smart: We live in layers here. Long-sleeve tops, a proper sweater (not a fashion one an actual warm one), and a jacket that doesn't make you look like you're summiting Everest but actually keeps you warm. Throw in a scarf, and you're golden. Oh, and bring a light rain jacket. It rarely rains, but when it does, you'll thank us.
The Festivals That Made Us Fall in Love
Here's where winter in Almería goes from "nice" to "unforgettable."
Christmas Markets (Throughout December)
The first time we stumbled into Roquetas' Christmas market, we weren't expecting much. We'd been to the massive ones in Germany and Austria how could a small Spanish coastal town compete?
It doesn't try to. And that's exactly why it's special.
The market sets up in the town center with strings of lights that turn the palm trees into something out of a storybook. Local vendors sell handmade ceramics, turrón (Spanish nougat that were now addicted to and make sure to always stock up on), and roasted chestnuts that warm your hands while you wander.
There's always music sometimes a local guitarist, sometimes kids from the school choir absolutely butchering Feliz Navidad in the most endearing way possible.
Almería's Christmas market #4 on this list is bigger and more elaborate, but both have this wonderfully unpretentious, family-oriented vibe that the mega-markets have lost.
Three Kings' Parade — January 5th (The Big One)
If you're anywhere near Andalusia on January 5th and you miss the Three Kings' Parade, we can't be friends.
This isn't some quaint little procession. This is THE EVENT of the winter season. The entire town lines the streets hours early (We learned to bring a folding chair our second year). Floats roll through with the Three Wise Men...Melchior, Caspar, and Balthazar tossing candy to screaming children (ours included) and adults who absolutely lose their dignity diving for wrapped sweets.
The first time we went, Mama Bear cried. Yes, cried. There was something about the pure joy on kids' faces, the music, the feeling of being part of something ancient and communal that just hit different.
Pro tip: Position yourself on Calle Roquetas near the main square for the best views, but get there by 5 PM at the latest.
New Year's Eve — The 12 Grapes Tradition
New Year's Eve in Spain is wild, and Roquetas does it right.
Everyone gathers in the main plaza around 11:45 PM, clutching a small bowl of grapes. At midnight, when the clock strikes twelve times, you eat one grape per chime for good luck in the new year.
It sounds easy. It's not. Those bells move FAST, and by grape seven, you're choking and laughing and trying not to accidentally inhale a grape while fireworks explode overhead. It's chaotic and ridiculous and absolutely perfect.
Afterward, the party spills into the streets. Bars stay open until dawn. Strangers hug strangers. It feels less like a tourist experience and more like you've been invited to Spain's family party.
Carnival (Late February)
Carnival in Almería is the city's last hurrah before Lent, and they don't hold back. Parades with elaborate costumes, music competitions, dancing in the streets it's Brazil-lite, Andalusian style.
In Roquetas, it's smaller but equally spirited. Locals dress up, kids get face-painted, and everyone seems to agree that dignity is optional for a weekend.
Why We Keep Coming Back in Winter
For Families
We've watched families light up here. The Three Kings' Parade becomes a core memory for kids. The beaches, empty of summer crowds, turn into giant playgrounds where children can run free without dodging sunbathers. Restaurants welcome families with open arms (and patience for chaos) in a way that's genuinely heartwarming.
The Roquetas Aquarium which we wrote about in a previous blog post entitled How the Aquarium Costa de Almería Became The Ultimate Family-Friendly Adventure on Spain’s Coast is fantastic on cooler days and a personal favorite of our daughters sharks, rays, and tropical fish in a modern facility that doesn't feel dingy or dated. And Castillo de Santa Ana, the 18th-century fortress, has ramparts kids can climb and cannons they can pretend to fire.
For Couples
This is going to sound cheesy, but bear with us: winter here is romantic in a way summer can't match.
Summer is sexy and social. Winter is intimate. It's walking Playa Serena at sunset with a bottle of wine, the beach empty except for a few dog walkers (a great time for our two little furballs). It's candlelit dinners where you're not sweating through your shirt. It's day trips to Cabo de Gata which made our list on Vacationing in Costa del Sol and Costa de Almería Spain On A Budget in 2025 where you feel like you've discovered secret coves that belong only to you.
We still talk about and share with our guests the evening we spent at one of Almería's Arab baths, soaking in hot water while winter rain pattered on the skylights above. Pure bliss.
The Practical Perks
Let's talk money and logistics, because that matters.
Winter is cheaper. Significantly. Flights drop, hotel rates plummet, and even our beloved Villa de los Osos (which I'll get to) becomes more affordable. You're getting the same beautiful location for a fraction of summer prices.
Everything is less crowded. Museums, beaches, restaurants you can actually enjoy them without fighting for space. At Almería's Alcazaba, that magnificent Moorish fortress overlooking the city, We've had entire courtyards to ourselves to photograph and better explore.
Where To Stay: Villa de los Osos
Full disclosure: In case you haven't already guessed it, Villa de los Osos is our families beloved Villa.
For us and our many guests Villa de los Osos has always been everything anyone could ask for in a winter base: space, warmth, and that home-away-from-home feeling that hotels can't replicate.
For families: Our fully equipped kitchen means you can cook holiday meals (or simple pasta dinners when kids are melting down). Multiple bedrooms mean everyone gets space. And the living area has always been our perfect gathering point for movie nights when the weather turns.
For couples: The terrace becomes your private retreat. We've spent countless evenings out there wrapped in blankets, drinking local wine from Laujar, watching the stars, and feeling grateful we're not back in Germany's long, dark, wet and cold winter days.
Our location is ideal as we're close enough to town for festivals and restaurants, and just far enough for peace and quiet. And in winter, when you're not desperate to be ON the beach, that balance is perfect. But if the beach or golf is your thing, then we're still only a 2-3 min walk away.
The Food & Drink (Finally, the Good Stuff)
Winter eating in Almería shifts from light, fresh summer fare to heartier, cozier meals—and we're always down for that.
Christmas Sweets We're Obsessed With...
Turrón: This almond nougat comes in two main varieties—hard (Alicante-style) and soft (Jijona-style). As soft turrón people, fights in our extended family and with local friends have broken out over this preference.
Polvorones: Crumbly almond cookies that dissolve in your mouth and leave powder everywhere. They're messy and glorious.
Roscón de Reyes: Eaten on Three Kings' Day, this ring-shaped cake has candied fruit on top and sometimes a hidden figurine inside. Whoever gets the figurine is king or queen for the day.
Comfort Food
Restaurants add hearty stews, grilled meats, and warming soups to their menus. We fell hard for ajo colorao, a potato and paprika soup that's simple but soul-warming. Pair it with crusty bread and local olive oil, and you've got perfection.
And the seafood doesn't disappear—gambas al ajillo (garlic shrimp) and rape a la plancha (grilled monkfish) are still everywhere, thank goodness.
Wine & Warmth
Winter is red wine season, and Andalusian wines shine here. Reds from the Alpujarras region are bold and earthy. And don't sleep on vino dulce—sweet fortified wines perfect for sipping after dinner.
Our ritual: grab a bottle, some local cheese and jamón, and settle in on the villa terrace as the sun sets. Bliss.
Things to Actually Do (Beyond Festivals)
For Families
Roquetas Aquarium: Modern, engaging, and perfect for a few hours when it's cooler or rainy.
Mini Hollywood / Oasys: This old Western film set we wrote about in a previous blog post entitled Explore the Hollywood Magic of Oasys: A Spanish Western Theme Park Just 30 Minutes From Roquetas de Mar in the Tabernas Desert has cowboy shows, a zoo, and a pool. Kids lose their minds here.
Bike rides along the coast: Rent bikes and cruise the Paseo Marítimo. Winter means no crowds and perfect temperatures for pedaling.
Day trip to Sierra Nevada: In 90 minutes, you can go from beach to snow. Kids sledding in the morning, beach sunset in the evening. Spain is wild.
For Couples
Cabo de Gata Natural Park: Rent a car and explore hidden coves like Playa de Mónsul and Playa de los Genoveses. In winter, you'll have them almost to yourself.
Almería's Alcazaba: This Moorish fortress offers sweeping views, gorgeous architecture, and the kind of sunset moment that makes you propose on the spot (or so we've heard...).
Wine tasting in the countryside: Head to Laujar de Andarax or nearby Bodega La Fuente for tastings in the Alpujarras foothills.
Arab Baths in Almería: Hot baths, cold plunges, steam rooms, and massages. Romance level: maximum.
Real Talk: Things to Know
Book holiday weeks early. Christmas through New Year fills up fast, even in the "off-season." Restaurants and accommodations get claimed by Spanish families, so don't wing it.
Daylight is shorter. Sunset hits around 6 PM in December. Plan your sightseeing for mornings and afternoons, then embrace cozy evenings indoors with food, wine, and good company.
Rent a car. Public transport exists but is limited. A rental car opens up Cabo de Gata, the Tabernas Desert, inland villages, and Sierra Nevada. We use Rentalcars.com and have never had issues.
Most places stay open, but hours shift. Restaurants might open later for dinner, and shops may close for longer siestas. Spain doesn't shut down in winter it just moves at a slower, more Spanish pace.
From Our Personal Experience...
We've had the privilege to lived in Roquetas de Mar and Almería in every season now, and winter holds a special place in the Bear families hearts.
It's not the season for lying on the beach all day or jumping in crystal-clear water (though brave souls do swim—Papa Bear being one of them). It's the season for feeling like you're part of something real, something that exists whether tourists show up or not.
It's eating 12 grapes at midnight surrounded by strangers who feel like friends. It's watching a child's face light up as candy flies through the air at the Three Kings' Parade. It's walking an empty beach at sunset with someone you love, or sitting alone on a terrace with a glass of wine, feeling impossibly grateful for the life you're living in that moment.
If autumn in Roquetas is golden and reflective, winter is warm-hearted and festive—a season that invites you not just to visit, but to belong.
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FAQ: Your Top 10 Winter In Almería & Roquetas de Mar Questions Answered
What's the weather actually like?
Daytime temps are 15–19°C (59–66°F), evenings 8–10°C (46–50°F). Mild by European standards, but bring layers and a real jacket.
Is it worth visiting in winter?
Absolutely. It's peaceful, authentic, perfect for culture and nature, and way more affordable than summer.
Can you swim?
Technically yes, but the water is cold (15–17°C / 59–63°F). At this point we've seen more than enough people do it, Mr. Bear included. Mama Bear and the kids however respect them from the shore with a sweater on.
Best family activities?
Three Kings' Parade, Roquetas Aquarium, Mini Hollywood, and day trips to Sierra Nevada for snow play.
Best romantic activities?
Sunset walks on Playa Serena, wine tasting in Laujar, exploring Cabo de Gata, and Arab baths in Almería.
Are there winter festivals?
Yes! Christmas markets, New Year's Eve (with the 12 grapes tradition), Three Kings' Day (January 6), and Carnival in late February.
Is it cheaper than summer?
Much cheaper. Flights, accommodations, and even some activities drop significantly in price.
Do restaurants and shops stay open?
Yes, though hours may be shorter or shift later. You'll have no trouble finding great food and open attractions.
Do I need a car?
Yes & No, but highly recommended if you want to explore beyond Roquetas—Cabo de Gata, Tabernas, and mountain villages are much easier with wheels.
Where should I stay?
Villa de los Osos—spacious, cozy, and perfect for both families and couples looking for a home base.
Have questions about winter in Roquetas de Mar? Drop them in the comments or send us an email or even reach us via WhatsApp— We're always happy to help like minded wanderers discover this underrated Spanish season.
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